
Heritage is about more than just buildings and monuments: it’s about the things that make up the essence of a place, the bits of everyday life that shape and define its character. Heritage, in other words, is alive and constantly evolving.
That’s why I chose Sham Shui Po’s working-class heritage as my heritage topic. Sham Shui Po, a poor but energetic neighbourhood in western Kowloon, is one of a dwindling number of places where some of Hong Kong’s traditional urban life can be experienced. Walkup apartment buildings—many built before or immediately after World War II—still outnumber highrises. Street markets, alleyway shops and staircase shops are abundant. So are dai pai dong, “ice houses” and other kinds of classic Hong Kong eateries. In its poverty, another face of Hong Kong is revealed, sometimes not as traditional as it is simply marginal: African refugees who live on monthly allowances of HK$1,000 as they wait for their asylum applications to be processed; homeless men who set up camp in a football pitch each night; cubicle dwellers who pay as much as $900 for a couple of square metres in a makeshift, windowless room.
My base of information, not to mention my inspiration, comes courtesy of the Society for Community Organization, a non-profit social justice group that has spearheaded some fascinating multimedia initiatives to document the lives, culture, homes, businesses and streets of Sham Shui Po. On its website and in several books, SOCO provides architectural studies of tong lau and other typical buildings, profiles of businesses like pawn shops, cha chaan teng and bonesetters, and stories of the people who call Sham Shui Po home.
Beyond SOCO, there are a number of more general sources of information that I find very helpful. Sham Shui Po Kai Fong is a blog that advocates for the documentation and preservation of Sham Shui Po’s cultural heritage through art and grassroots political action. Sham Shui Po Art Action is another blog that covers the same topics in Chinese. Not to Leave, meanwhile, is a community-based art project that created postcards bearing the stories of Sham Shui Po residents.
Finally, I always find it helpful to check out Wikipedia, which has articles many aspects of Hong Kong and Sham Shui Po culture like dai pai dong and tong lau. Although Wikipedia isn’t reliable enough to use as a source, it’s a great starting point for a more in-depth exploration of any given topic.